Date: 05/06/2007
How to get the Best from FK Domestics

FK Domestic is the UK’s top domestic cleaning agency. We provide highly trained cleaners and specialised technicians to clean corporate and residential properties. Our vast database enables us to find the right cleaner for you.

Checking & Vetting

We perform thorough background checks on all cleaners. Above all of them are reliable and trustworthy. On the rare occasion a cleaner is unable to attend we will of course provide a highly trained replacement. Our vetting system ensures all our cleaners have legitimate references and are entitled to work in the United Kingdom according to current legal requirements.

Training

Our in-house training provides our cleaners and technicians with an array of skills and expertise that enable them to work efficiently and effectively. In accordance with current Health and Safety regulations all our cleaners are competent when handling chemicals/cleaning materials and operating electrical equipment.

We offer a fantastic range of services providing highly trained cleaners and expert technicians.


FK Domestics offers the following excellent services:

Domestic cleaning on a regular basis
One-off cleaning
Pre-tenancy cleaning
Post-tenancy cleaning
Carpet cleaning
Cleaning upholstery (sofas etc)
Window cleaning
Mattress cleaning
Curtain cleaning
Hard-Floor cleaning
Party Help
House sitting
After builders cleaning

It is our pleasure to match a cleaner around your busy schedule and we can even organise an interview between client and cleaner before any work is undertaken. We are delighted to be recommended to new clients and to show our gratitude we offer attractive awards.

Don’t worry if your business or private residence changes address. If you are still in Central or Greater London we can always provide an exemplary standard of service.

Our cleaning ladies are part of the FK Domestic Family and therefore we undertake stringent procedures to ensure honesty and reliability. We review current Passport and/or Birth Certificate and demand proof of address (utilities bill and/or rent book). Due to these policies every cleaner/technician is genuine, honest and above all hard working. We can assure our clients peace of mind. If a problem does occur our customer assistance service is available 7 days a week.

Despite all our rigorous checks and interview process it is still possible your cleaner may prove unreliable. This is a rare occurrence and the majority of our clients enjoy a fruitful relationship with our workers. However,
it would be remiss of us not to review possible problems and how best to resolve them. Below are the most common causes of concern:

• Poor Attendance
• Not showing for a designated interview.
• Not showing for work.
• Arriving late
• Leaving early
• Quitting soon after starting
• Missing days due to illness and unscheduled holidays

The only way to resolve any problem is by letting us know as soon as possible. If we are unaware of the issue then we cannot rectify the problem. We understand that you may be stressed but when contacting us please be calm and courteous. We will do everything within our power to turn the situation around and put a smile back on your face:

We will:

• Liaise with the cleaner and if necessary dissolve our contract if he/she proves unreliable.
• Arrange a replacement if the problem cannot be rectified.

Employing a cleaner on a private capacity is a very risky move. Hoping your cleaner is honest, reliable and hardworking is a constant worry. FK Domestics eliminates the risk and hassle and will provide you with an exceptional cleaner. Despite our best efforts problems can occur with domestic cleaning staff. As long as you contact us FK Domestics can and will resolve the problem.

If for any reason there is a communication breakdown between client and cleaner then we can intervene on the client’s behalf. We can even arrange additional training if the situation calls for it.

Unless we hear from you it is assumed that everything is in order and you are satisfied with the arrangement.

Remember: We can only help if you contact us directly.

Testimonials

“It is a pleasure to deal with a company that is genuine about client satisfaction. I have found the staff to be polite, punctual and hardworking and always perform an excellent job. Not only is your standard service top notch but when we requested additional help at short notice you were only too happy to oblige.”


“When I needed a cleaner the internet seemed like a good place to start. There were many sites advertising cleaners at very cheap rates. I hired a young lady who seemed only too happy to have the work. Apart from being late on several occasions the first few months were fine but soon her punctuality worsened, her cleaning
was half hearted and some days she didn’t even turn up. As if this wasn’t bad enough she began pestering me for an increase in her salary. I felt like I was being used. Then with only one days notice she went on holiday for 4 weeks leaving me in the lurch. I knew then I wanted to use a professional company to take control and alleviate the stress. I have been with FK Domestics for over two years and I am very happy with their service. If a problem does occur they arrange for a reliable replacement cleaner. My only regret is not using them sooner.”

“Dear FK Domestics, I feel so lucky I have found a professional cleaning company that can not only supply me with an honest and reliable worker but can also liaise easily between client and cleaner. I work extremely long hours and unfortunately I have not the time to clean. I hired a private cleaner and gave her keys to my flat. Within two weeks she vanished along with my house keys. Her contact details proved to be false. I had to change all the locks in my house and I swear I will never use a private cleaner again. FK Domestics has restored my faith in cleaners. It is wonderful to return home from work to a house that is immaculate and fresh.

My cleaner even leaves nice messages for me and always asks if there is anything else to be done. I am constantly recommending your services simply because you provide such a high standard of customer care.”

“At first I was dubious about using a ‘company’ instead of a private cleaner but the service is excellent and the cleaning is first rate. Thank you for a job well done.” S. James

“I signed with FK Domestics for ‘one year domestic cleaning’ and I am thrilled with the results. As a bonus I was offered free carpet cleaning. I have used other carpet cleaners in the past but thanks to you my carpets have never looked better. I will definitely recommend you to my friends.” R. Smith


“We are so happy with FK Domestics we have decided to take out the 3 year option, great value for money and hassle free.” Ali Shah

“Through work I am being relocated abroad. I want to thank you for your excellent service over the last 3 years. I can only hope I find a company as good as FK Domestics whilst I’m away.” P. Webber

“I used FK Domestic for a one-off clean but I was so impressed with the professionalism and reliability that I have decided to sign up for a year. I have recommended you to all my friends.” K. Barber

Date: 6/06/2007

Removing Gum

Gum can be removed using ice to harden and a dull knife to remove.

Removing Magic Marker Ink

Hair spray will remove magic-marker ink from surfaces. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Cleaning Window Screens

Nylon covered sponges are great for cleaning window screens. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Removing Smoke Odor

Place a bowl of vinegar out to absorb smoke odor. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Unstick That Door

Car wax applied to a sticking door will ease opening and closing. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Repairing Cigarette Burns in Carpets

Cigarette burns in carpeting can be repaired by cutting the blackened fibers from the hole. Squeeze liquid glue into the hole and fill with fibers trimmed from carpet remnants. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Repairing Small Holes in Window Screens

Clear nail polish will repair small holes in window screens. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Killing Flies

Hair spray will kill flies. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Window Painting Tip

Newspaper strips when wetted can be used around windows when painting, in place of masking tape. Remove strips before they dry out. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Drying Out Wet Magazines or Books

Place paper towels on both sides of a wet page to absorb the moisture and prevent wrinkling. SOURCE: www.allabouthome.com

Mild Acid Cleaner

Acid cleaners can be used to remove tarnish, alkaline discoloration and corrosion from metals; remove hard water deposits from many surfaces; will neutralize alkalis; may have bleaching effects.

• Caution: Acids can injure eyes, skin, and fabrics; stronger acids are highly toxic and can eat through metal. Acids can etch surfaces and porcelain enamel.

Mild Acid Cleaners include Lemon Juice (or Citric Acid) and Vinegar (or Acetic Acid). They help dissolve hard water deposits from shower doors, mild rust stains and soap film and remove tarnish from brass and copper. Acids tend to bleach some stains.
Mild Acid Cleaners - Cream of Tartar (or Tartaric Acid) For example if you simmer a solution (1 tablespoons of cream of Tartar in a quart of water and discolorization of aluminum pans, caused by alkalai such as tomato sauce, will tend to dissapppear.
Strong Acid Cleaners - Oxalic Acid. Used in commercial rust removers to remove iron rust; a weak solution will remove rust stains from tubs and sinks.

• Caution: These acids are highly toxic; follow label instructions exactly. Do not get on skin or in eyes, or on other materials

Strong Acid Cleaners - dilute hydrochloric acid, dilute sulfuric acid, muriatic acid and sodium bisulfate. These acids are used in some toilet bowl cleaners and etching compounds. They remove hard water and iron deposits and organic matter.

• Caution: Never mix with any other cleaner! Very toxic! Follow label instructions exactly. Do not get on skin, in eyes, or on other materials.

 http://www.doityourself.com/stry/alkali
Alkali cleaners remove and suspend heavy soil and grease so it can be rinsed away.

• Caution: Alkalis can damage skin and fabrics, corrode and darken aluminum. Most (except baking soda) are toxic if swallowed.

Mild Alkali Cleaners Baking Soda (Sodium bicarbonate)

Soak burnt food from pans in solution of 2 tablespoons per quart of warm water. (For heavier or sticky soil spots, sprinkle on damp sponge, rub and rinse; or make paste of soda.) Clean glass, tile, porcelain enamel, stainless steel sinks, chrome, fixtures, fiberglass tubs and showers. Remove coffee and tea stains from dishes. Clean and deodorize refrigerator.

Moderately Strong Alkali Cleaners Ammonia

Use solution of 2 tablespoons per quart of warm water to clean windows, glass, ovens, range burners, greasy surfaces. Use 1 tablespoon per quart warm water to wash painted walls and rinse well. Will remove some water based floor waxes.

• Caution: Irritating fumes. Can soften paint, especially latex, if too strong. Has a slight bleaching effect. Always use alone because combining ammonia with other cleaners may produce lethal gases.

Moderately Strong Alkali Cleaners Borax

In mild solution, 1 to 2 tablespoons per gallon of warm water to wash sinks, painted walls, etc. Laundering (as diapers) to remove odors and retard bacterial growth.

• Caution: Rinse thoroughly

Moderately Strong Alkali Cleaners TSP  (Tri-Sodium Phosphate)

Buy at paint stores, especially ones painter use. Is part of some commercial cleaners. Use a solution of 1 tablespoon per gallon warm water to clean painted surfaces, porcelain fixtures, tile- glazed and unglazed. Removes soot and smoke (greasy dirt).

• Caution: Always wear rubber gloves to protect skin; strong solutions remove paint. ALWAYS rinse thoroughly.

Strong Alkali Cleaners Washing Soda (Sodium carbonate)

Uses In hot solution, soak greasy burners, pans; dissolves grease from drains. Is builder for many powdered detergents.

• Caution: Highly toxic; do not get on skin. Will darken and corrode aluminum.

Very Strong Alkali Cleaners Lye (Sodium hydroxide)

Uses are to clean grease from drains and open drains. Found in many drain and oven cleaners.

• Caution: Very caustic and toxic; can cause serious burns to eyes or skin. Follow label instructions exactly. 

 Source :http://www.doityourself.com/stry/aluminum

Aluminum is a light-weight metal with a bright silvery luster. Small amounts of other metals are added to aluminum to make harder alloys for most uses. Its affinity for oxygen makes it resistant to corrosion and attack by most chemicals. Most aluminum used in visible parts of appliances is lacquered or otherwise coated, anodized or painted.
Aluminum reacts with air to grow its own thin oxide coating very fast. This hard, dark gray coating protects the metal. It's found on all bare aluminum surfaces, including utensils which, if rubbed on a counter or range top, or other material, makes a dark gray mark. If washed off the outside of the pan, it quickly forms again. A commercial process called "anodizing" thickens this coat and often colors it. Anodizing does not rub off. A special anodizing process produces a very hard, dark gray finish on professional type cookware.
Care depends on the product made from aluminum. Lacquers or waxes on products NOT used for food can protect aluminum against weathering and corrosion. Brighten aluminum utensils by cooking acid foods such as tomatoes, apples or rhubarb, or by boiling either 1 to 2 teaspoons cream of tartar per quart of water or 2 tablespoons vinegar per quart of water for 10 minutes in the pan. Prevent discoloration in the bottoms of double boilers or egg poachers by adding 1 teaspoon vinegar or 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar to the water in the bottom pan. Remove stains from the outside of aluminum pans with silver polish, or mild, nonabrasive cleaner. Soap-filled steel wool pads scratch the outside surface, so use only when removing burned-on food or grease is more important to you than the scratched pan. Remove hard water mineral deposits (lime scale) from tea kettles where they have become crusted, boiling equal parts of vinegar and water for several minutes and letting stand an hour or so. The process may have to be repeated in severe cases. Rinse with plain water before using tea kettle.
Burned-on Food or Grease: Fill pan with hot water and let stand 1 hour. Scrape off as much food as possible with a dull item such as a wooden spoon or half of clothespin, or plastic spatula or plastic sponge. Complete removal with soap-filled steel wool pad. For grease build-up, soak in very hot water with detergent; then scour with soap-filled steel wool pad.
Use mild a detergent and warm water when possible. Alkalis, even baking soda, and especially stronger alkalis discolor aluminum. If trying a stronger cleaner, pre-test on a hidden place to be sure it cleans satisfactorily and does not damage the aluminum. Always follow directions on the product label for aluminum exactly.
Be cautious about using abrasive cleaners (scouring powders, steel wool, abrasive polishes, etc.) as they may permanently scratch aluminum; painted or anodized aluminum surfaces will be permanently damaged. Do not clean aluminum when it is too hot to touch, or if temperatures go below 50 F.
On outdoor surfaces, remove bugs, sap, tree seeds, etc. as soon as possible, as they harden with exposure to sunlight and heat, and so are harder to get off. Suitable solvents will remove tar and similar substances. Test solvent first if the aluminum is painted to be sure it doesn't also remove the paint. Follow label precautions when using solvents - no spark or flame in the area and have sufficient ventilation.
Discolored Aluminum: Heat a solution of 1 tbs. vinegar per qt of water or 2 tsp. cream of tartar per qt of water in each pan until discoloration disappears.
Vinegar: To clean an aluminum coffeepot and remove lime deposits, boil equal pans of water and white vinegar. Boiling time depends upon how heavy deposits are.

Source  http://www.doityourself.com/stry/acidcleaners
This article has been contributed in part by Michigan State University Extension

Mary Findley spent 12 years professionally cleaning homes and answers your questions as moderator of our
DoItYourself.com Cleaning Forum . Visit her website at http://doityourself.com/to/goclean.htm for her free bimonthly cleaning tips.

Windows and Mirrors
In a 32 oz. spray bottle, add 1/3 cup white (clear) vinegar and 1/4 cup rubbing alcohol. If you absolutely must have another cleaner, add 1 tablespoon automatic dishwashing detergent.

Tubs and Shower Stalls

Alkaline deposits in the water cause those not so pretty spots on your glass doors and shower walls. Apply a car wax to the walls and doors, but not the floor or it gets real slick. Both fiberglass and glass are porous. The car wax seals those pores, which makes cleaning easier and keeps water spots away. Reapply twice yearly.
Squeegee or wipe down your shower after each use to further prevent buildup. If you're tired of fighting the soap scum buildup, switch to liquid soap, natural soap or Dove. It's the talc in most bar soaps that causes the buildup. Changing soap can eliminate the buildup. You still need to clean the shower once a week, but the job is easier.
Clean the showers once a week with an orange citrus based cleaner. Spray on and give it ten minutes to dissolve the dirt. Why do all that scrubbing when your product does it for you?
OK, so the soap scum refuses to budge and friends are coming for a visit. Use your orange based cleaner concentrated. Pour plenty on an old dishrag and wipe on the walls and doors. Use can use boiling hot white vinegar (wear gloves) but you must keep applying it as the white vinegar dries. It takes time to dissolve that buildup.
Patience now becomes a virtue. Wait and wait and wait some more. Go clean the rest of the house. If the cleaner starts dripping down the walls, wipe it back on. Check the walls with a fingernail. If the residue removes easily, round one is about over.
Use a white bristle pad to scrub. They look like fibers and are glued to a sponge. Use the white ones only. The colored scrubbers are coarser and do scratch. Test a spot to make sure it won't scratch the fiberglass. Dampen the pad, keeping it good and wet and gently scrub. This removes the soap buildup and most of the white mineral deposits on the glass doors. Nothing removes the etch marks themselves, but further damage is halted. Reapply the orange citrus cleaner if necessary.
Plastic shower curtains can be machine washed. Remove, spray with your diluted orange based cleaner and wait about 10 minutes. Wash with your rags and they come out quite clean. Air dry. If the curtain is long enough, cut off the seam at the bottom to prevent mildew buildup down there.

Toilets
Ring around your toilet? Again, alkaline deposits cause those nasty rings. Depending on the hardness of your water, pour one or two cups of white vinegar into the toilet once a month to eliminate the problem.
Toilet bowl rings - Here I take a deep breath and plead with you to follow these instructions. Repeat. Follow these instructions. Do not deviate or you will scratch the inside of your toilet bowl.
Turn off the water flow to the toilet and flush to remove the water. Saturate a couple of heavy duty paper towels with white vinegar or the Orange Citrus Cleaner. Place around the edges making sure all areas are covered. Keep the towels damp for several hours, even overnight, until the water spots start dissolving. Then scrub with a stiff nylon brush.
If the white vinegar does not dissolve the whole ring, go to a janitorial supply store or a hardware store and purchase a pumice stone and a stiff toothbrush. Dampen one end of the pumice stone and keep it wet.
Gently, very gently, rub the pumice stone across the lines. When enough pumice builds on the sides, switch to a stiff bristle brush to continue working. Rub gently until the deposit disappears. Pumice will scratch the toilet. Use it only one time and cautiously.

Sinks
Once a month, pour one cup of baking soda, followed by one cup of white vinegar down the drain. Wait an hour and flush with warm water. The combination fizzles away most of the buildup. Works for shower, tub and kitchen sink drains as well.

Faucets
Water deposits build up around faucets and drain areas. Use a paper towel soaked in white vinegar and place around the faucet. Plug the drain and pour 1/2 cup white vinegar in the sink and wait. It takes time for the white vinegar to dissolve the alkaline deposits. Scrub using a stiff bristled nylon toothbrush.
Do not use orange based or powdered cleansers on brass or gold plated faucets. These fixtures corrode and scratch quickly. Dry these faucets after each use to prevent water spot damage.

Mildew

Keep ahead of mildew so it doesn't become a problem. Every six months spray your bathroom ceiling with a 50/50 solution of hydrogen peroxide and water. Peroxide is a safe bleach and won't harm the environment or your lungs. Find larger quantities of peroxide at beauty or medical supply stores.

Spray the mixture on and leave it. No need to rinse or scrub. If you currently have mildew, follow the above directions. Wait two hours and respray. Then wait 24 hours and spray a third time if necessary.

04/08/2007

1.Source: http://nhnh.essortment.com/atticrenovation_rqar.htm
You know it’s there, though you try to forget. That huge pile of junk and boxes in the attic. It’s too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter to go up there, you just keep making excuses and the junk pile grows and grows. Well, it’s time to get up there and unload some unnecessary baggage. How do you decide what to keep and what to throw away? What do you do with the stuff once you take it out? There are a few simple guidelines to follow when cleaning your attic that will help you get rid of some junk and prevent you from collecting it in the future.

When was the last time you used this? If you haven’t used something in two years or more, it’s time to get rid of it. Whether it be clothes, toys, appliances, whatever, if you haven’t had a use for it in two years, chances are you never will again. Don’t save old clothes unless you have children who are waiting for hand-me-downs. Clothes go out of style and if you’re a different size now, don’t hang on to things because you think you might be able to wear it again someday. If you go down a size, you deserve new clothes! If you gain some weight, you deserve to spend the money on new ones! Use this as incentive, don’t hang on to your fat clothes because it says you don’t really believe you can keep a handle on it. There is someone out there who doesn't have a second set of clothes and you are just sitting on a pile of them, get rid of it!

Kids toys and clothes can be given to the Salvation Army, your local church or sold at a garage sale. Though it may be hard to part with your little ones’ belongings, they are just taking up space and you will never use them again. If you have another baby, you’re going to want new things and will most likely get them as gifts anyway. If you must save something, make it a few things that really remind you of when they were small.
If you have antiques or old furniture, sell it or put it out to the curb, someone will take it. Keeping things in the attic is like not having them at all…they are out of sight, and they are not used. If you aren’t going to use it, sell it or get rid of it! What are you holding on to it for if you’re not enjoying it?

Keep a few boxes for mementos. Artwork, school papers, baby’s communion dress, photo albums. Memories are the only things that should be kept up in the attic, along with out of season clothes that will definitely be worn again. Clear out some of that space and it will help clear your head and help out some needy folks in the process when you give to them things that were doing you no good at all.

2.Source: http://vtvt.essortment.com/wickerfurniture_ofu.htm
Wicker furniture is used inside the home to make rooms special and charming, it is also used outside of our homes on porches and patios. Wicker is not actually outdoor furniture, although it is used for this purpose, it can be effected by the wind and rain and is specifically impacted by moisture. Some humidity is beneficial; the heat that is consistent indoors will dry out the wicker inside the home. You will notice this fact when you hear the little ¡§cracking¡¨ sounds when you set on your furniture. Add the moisture needed by wiping occasionally with a damp cloth.

Do not forget to systematically dust your wicker by wiping with a soft cloth, or vacuum. To remove spills and stains, use a mild dish washing liquid, 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, wring somewhat dry and wipe gently.
Regular cleaning should be done, perhaps every few weeks to keep your furniture looking good. Vacuum the dust from the wicker or hand dust, then wash with the suds only of a mixture of gentle detergent and warm water. Using clear water rinse by wiping off cleansing suds.
Clean furniture that is all wicker thoroughly at least annually. If it is painted it should not be saturated with water, this could cause damage to the paint, and simply clean with mild soapy water and a sponge that is not dripping wet. If the wicker has real wood built into the unit, clean with the normal method for cleaning wood furniture, and wipe the wicker part, down with mild soap, water, and a sponge.

- First dust the wicker by hand or by using a vacuum, being careful to remove all abrasive soil.
- Using slightly warm scarcely soapy water, and a sponge or cloth to wash entire piece. To clean every crevice, us a soft bristled brush.
- Rinse completely, and place in sun to dry fully. A fan may be used or perhaps a hair drier, however make sure the furniture is totally dry.

Setting on your wicker furniture before it is completely dry will cause a distortion in shape. Do not allow any pressure for at least a few days after you are certain it is dry.

Using a varnish or lacquer finish or painting the wicker furniture, can alleviate the washing and cleaning process by a great degree. After applying the surface paint or varnish the furniture needs several days of drying.
You must be thinking by now, have I made the right choice with wicker, it takes so much of my effort to keep in good shape? Personally, I think your choice is a good one, where else can you match the airy, rustic and beautiful look of wicker?

3.Source: http://sdsd.essortment.com/householdwaste_rasg.htm
We've all heard of the three R's: Reduce, Reuse and Recycle, but how many of us actually do any of the three? Chances are that most people do not participate, at the very least, in weekly curbside recycling. On the day set aside for curbside recycling take a walk around your neighborhood and see what's being recycled. Most likely, you'll find a handful of folks who have separated plastics, and aluminum cans. However, you will also find far more than a handful of folks with plastics, cans, clothing, paper, glass, junk mail and lawn clippings bagged and set out with the trash. People have a variety of reasons for avoiding recycling: "I don't have the time" or "It’s inconvenient." We live in a modern society in which the future of the humanity and the resources of the planet do not seem to enter the thoughts of most citizens. No matter how often the dwindling resources are pointed out and discussed in on television, radio, books, and the Internet, people assume that the subject is hype. At that rate the planet Earth is going we will have completely destroyed the Ozone layer by 2025, used most of our natural gas resources, and have no landfill space available. Currently, there is more landfill (garbage dumps) space per square mile than there are farms.

If each household practices the three R's, we might actually have a chance at saving the planet Earth. There are simple steps to take to reduce what we use, reuse what we have, and recycle what we no longer use. Whether a person lives in a cramped city apartment, townhouse, trailer, or suburban home, she/he can still make strides in the movement to reduce household waste, hence contributing to the future of all people.
The easiest way to go about reducing waste is to learn how to sort, organize and either reuse, or recycle it.
First, set aside a space in your garage, basement, spare room or closet, or in an outdoor shed. Next purchase 7 plastic storage containers with lids. You can find the containers at any home improvement, grocery or department store as inexpensively as $5.99. The plastic containers will be used to store:
(1) Plastic containers labeled #1 and/or #2
(2) Hazardous Waste-Batteries, old paint and chemicals
(3) Textiles-old clothing, and material
(4) Mixed Paper (greeting cards, newspaper, notebook or office paper)
(5) Glass bottles (clear or dark)
(6) Plastic grocery bags
(7) Aluminum cans
Anytime one of the above items is used, rinse the item (except for Hazardous Waste, paper and plastic grocery bags) and place it in the container. Be sure to keep the lid on the container; this will prevent moths, and odor from escaping, as well as keeping children, pets and critters out of the containers. Check with your city's sanitation department to see which curbside recycling the city will pick up. Most likely the city where you live will at least pick up aluminum and mixed paper. If not, ask the sanitation department for information regarding neighborhood-recycling programs.

Neighborhood recycling programs generally designate a spot where you can drop off recycling items, usually once a month, that are not included with your curbside recycling. Many grocery stores participate in the recycling of used plastic grocery bags. Check with your local grocer. You can minimize the amount of your recycling by purchasing goods that are not wasteful in the packaging of the product. Buy foods in bulk rather than in individual boxes or containers. Stay away from packaged convenience foods as they are often wrapped packaged in a plastic container, then wrapped in plastic, and boxed. This is more packaging than product! Do not purchase disposable items such as one-use cameras, diapers, or plug in air fresheners. Landfills are already filled to the brim with these items; and they take several hundred years to biodegrade.
Reuse what you can. If you purchase produce, don't put the items in small individual plastic bags. If you do use the plastic bags, put them into the plastic bag-recycling container, and reuse them the next time you go grocery shopping. Do the same with the plastic grocery shopping bags. Reuse them each time you grocery shop. Some grocery shops will even give you 2-3 cents if your reuse a bag. If you are purchasing only 1-2 items, tell the cashier that you do not need a bag. Never buy plastic bags--you already get them for free at the grocery store. Use them as garbage bags.

Food scraps and lawn clippings are not garbage, they are organic matter that should be composted and not set out in plastic bags with the trash. Many people think that they cannot compost because they haven't got a yard. A yard is not necessary for composting. A person living in a city apartment can effectively compost using 2 buckets. For people with any size yard--you only need 2-3 ft. in which to compost. There are many complicated methods for composting--mostly to rapidly promote the decay process. However, composting need not be complicated. All you need to do is to keep a small bucket in the kitchen for food scraps; egg shells, coffee grinds, fruit and vegetable peels, and so forth. Once a day, empty the bucket into your designated area and cover with soil. Each day you add another layer of scraps and soil. After 3-4 days, you mix it together with a shovel, and cover it with a layer of soil. It's that simple. After a week or two you've got a collection of nice dark brown soil. This is the organic soil that lawn and gardening stores sell for a hefty profit. Why pay someone for the soil, when you can make it for free? Spread the soil over your garden, lawn or yard. City dwellers need only to pour food scraps into a bucket of soil, and add layers of food and soil. Every other day mix and turn, and scoop out the dark soil with a small shovel and store in a second bucket. Save the soil for patio plants, or a community garden. Lawn clippings, weeds and branches also go into the composting pile.

If you change your own motor oil, never put motor oil into the trash, and NEVER pour the oil into a rain gutter; rain gutters run off directly into the oceans and rivers. More people each year improperly dispose of motor oil and kill wildlife than the entire spill from the Exxon Valdez. Call 1-800-Motoroil and ask for the directions to the nearest motor oil recycling location in your area. You can reduce the amount of your junk mail that you would recycle as mixed paper. Simply write to the Direct Marketing Association at: DMA Mail Preference Service
POB 9008
Farmingdale, NY 11735-9008
Include your name, address and zip code. Ask to be removed from the Direct Marketing mailing list. In 90 days, your junk mail will decrease 75%.
Never put used auto parts, appliances, or computer parts out with the trash. These items are not trash. Take them to the nearest junkyard, or salvage shop. You can also go to the web site: WWW.recycle.net and view lists of people who will gladly take your:
Used Auto Parts
Used Computer Parts
Used Laser and Ink Jet Cartridges
Used Radio Equipment
Used Televisions
Used Clothing
Wood and
Tires
Many people gather metals and broken appliances and sell them in bulk to salvage shops, while other people dismantle appliances and media equipment and repair them. Donate old clothing, and if it is damaged to the point where it is not able to be worn, cut the material into squares that you can use as rags, thus eliminating paper products such as paper towels and table napkins.
So, you see, it is not difficult to practice the three R's. It takes 15 minutes of planing, but a lifetime of follow up. Each person must commit to doing her/his share in keeping the planet free from abuse. Make the commitment and stick to it. After all, the earth doesn't belong to humankind; rather, humankind belongs to the Earth.

4.Source: http://ncnc.essortment.com/swimmingpoolca_rvbj.htm
The most important aspect to keep your above-ground pool in tip-top swimming condition is to always check your chlorine level daily. Algae can and will grow if your chlorine level drops dramatically, and you definitely do not want that to happen. Algae are slimy and difficult to clean.
The floating canisters of chlorine (sold in department stores and drugstores) are the easiest means by which to ensure adequate supplies of chlorine. They are maintenance-free. All you do is poke a hole in the vent at the top, then look for the hole next to the amount of gallons of water in your pool. There are usually two holes, one on each side of the canister. Poke a hole in these, using a nail or other sharp object, and drop the canister in your pool. That's all there is to it. No checking the filter daily or handling smelly chlorine.
The canister will normally last three weeks to a month and floats on its side when the chlorine runs out. All you do is remove it from your pool and put another one in.

Keep your pool covered when not in use. This will help to keep leaves and other debris from blowing in and make vacuuming easier and quicker. Solar covers for above-ground pools are sold through mail order catalogues and at department or pool supply stores. The specially designed bubbles on these covers attract the solar energy from the sun and heat the water in your pool.
Unless you live in a climate where it freezes during the winter, and you get a lot of snow, an above-ground pool can be left up all year long. Once again, cover your pool during the winter to help keep dirt out. Winter covers that attach to the edges of the pool are sold at the same places that sell solar covers.
It is important to remove the solar cover before covering the pool. Rinse off with a hose, let air dry, then fold and put away until the spring. Remember to check your chlorine canister at least once a month during the winter and replace as necessary.
Vacuuming dirt from the bottom of the pool is quick and easy. Depending upon the amount of use and how much debris gets blown into the pool, you will have to vacuum at least once or twice a week. Pool supply stores sell an attachment that connects to your garden hose. Simply screw onto the hose, hook on a pool-cleaning pole, and turn the water on. A vacuum is formed and all you do is run the attachment over the bottom of the pool.
Dirt and leaves are sucked up into a "sock" which is easily emptied when you are finished. Turn the water off, disconnect from your hose, let sock dry, and put away until the next time. It usually only takes about a half an hour to vacuum (depending how dirty the pool is) and you're ready to swim.
The newer filters only need to be cleaned at the beginning of your swimming season. Block off the intake valve (where the water enters the filter from your pool), disconnect your electrical supply, remove the inside of the filter, and hose off the paper with a hard spray of water. Reinsert into filter, turn it on, and you're done.
Above-ground pools come in depths from three feet to six feet, are a price-efficient substitute for built-in pools, and a great way to beat the heat.

5.Source: http://nd.essortment.com/chimneycleaning_rbtk.htm
There is nothing quite as nice as a roaring fire on a chilly winter’s evening. To enjoy this little luxury, however, you’ll have to at some stage tackle the problem of cleaning your chimney. If you don’t maintain your chimney, you will have an increased risk of chimney fire. So, get ready to encounter a plentiful supply of ash, dirt and creosote and go out and get the tools you’ll need to clean up your chimney. Here’s a list of essential tools:
*** extension ladder
*** vacuum along with crevice attachment
*** chimney rod and brushes
*** stiff bristle cleaning brush
*** broom
Follow these steps to clean your chimney:
(1) Lay a drop cloth in front of the chimney
(2) Locate the fireplace’s damper ( a metal door up inside the fireplace above the firebox) and open it.
(3) Use your extension ladder to get on the roof. Take your chimney rod and brushes up there with you.
(4) Take off the chimney cap, clean it and check for signs of damage.
(5) After assembling your rod and brushes, place the rod down the chimney and clean the inner walls with an up and down motion. Continue until you have worked the entire inner walls of the chimney.
(6) Get off the roof and go back inside. Clean the flue ( the pipe between the fireplace and the chimney) with your stiff bristle cleaning brush.
(7) Remove cold ash from the fireplace and damper with your vacuum cleaner.
(8) Clean the walls of the fireplace with your stiff bristle brush.
(9) Clean up all the debris with your vacuum cleaner.
Clean out your fireplace at the onset of winter before you start using it regularly. You only need to do this once per year. You should, however, clean out the fireplace at least every couple of weeks. After you have completed the job, you should clean your tools, especially your chimney rod and brushes. Use kerosene to remove all the debris. Then store your rod and brushes in a clean place, ready to be pulled out for next year’s chimney cleaning foray.

6.Source: http://va.essortment.com/cleanfurniture_rbuw.htm
As we enter into a showroom we can only wish that our own house were sometimes as clean and shiny as they were. The furniture seems so shiny and new, yet as the host tells you that the furniture is actually years and years old.
Well the first thing I wanted to know was, how do they keep their furniture so nice and shiny?
The following suggestions although simple are very effective in cleaning your household furniture.
With old or valuable furniture it is best to wipe over all surfaces thoroughly first with a clean damp cloth. This will remove any dust, and cup stains etc. It would be a good idea to use lukewarm water with a little bit of mild detergent mixed in for this.
For a good homemade mixture try the following: mix 2 parts of white wine vinegar, 2 parts of turpentine, and 2 parts of liquid paraffin and 1 part of methylated spirits into an old jar.
Apply this solution directly onto the furniture with an old cloth and make sure that you polish it off straight away with a clean dry cloth.
This will clean your furniture nicely without causing any damage.
A good way to get rid of those annoying dents on your much-loved wooden furniture is to place a thick, damp cloth over the dent. Then place the tip of a hot iron straight over the dent. The steam used will go through and swell the wood, then once this is done, you can polish the area and it should come up as good as new.
For furniture with French polish just wipe off marks with a damp cloth and wipe dry straight away; don’t use too much polish on these surfaces.
For oiled furniture once again clean with a slightly damp cloth and maybe use a little bit of mineral turpentine.
For Painted Furniture, clean with a soft damp cloth mixed with some light detergent, and then wipe clean with clean water and leave to dry away from any sunlight etc. or direct heat.
The same methods should be used for varnished or sealed wooden surfaces.
For waxed woods, wipe first with a damp cloth, remember to always follow the grain when cleaning, otherwise the results could be very streaky and look worse than when you started.
Yes, by using simple cleaning methods on your furniture, you can prolong the life of it and make it look in showroom condition.

7.Source: http://azaz.essortment.com/howtocleanwal_rhnm.htm

Most wallpapers are washable, however you will need to check to see if yours is one of the washable types. If you don't know if it's washable, test an inconspicuous area of the wallpaper and see if the colors run, bleed or fade. Try a place behind a piece of furniture or near the bottom of the wall in a corner. To keep wallpaper clean, you will need to vacuum it regularly. You don't want it to get too dirty before washing it. You'll also want to use the soft brush attachment on the vacuum cleaner to brush off heavy dust. Do this from the ceiling to the floor. Spider webs should be brushed off from floor to ceiling. If you don't have this attachment, you may also use a broom wrapped with a soft cotton or terrycloth towel. Change the towel frequently to avoid resetting the dust. If your paper is washable, you should wash the paper with mild soapy water (using a liquid dishwashing detergent) and a sponge. Clean the paper moving the soapy sponge in a circular motion. Immediately rinse with a sponge of cool clear water. Pat the wall dry with a clean, dry cotton or terrycloth towel to remove any moisture from the paper. If you need to rewash stains, allow the paper to dry completely before starting the procedure again. If your wallpaper is marked 'scrubbable' you can use a foam or all purpose cleaner in the same circular motion method mentioned above. Don't forget to immediately rinse with a sponge of cool water and to pat the wall dry with a cotton cloth. If your wallpaper is fabric it may be cleanable, but don't count on it. You'll need to test it in an inconspicuous area to see if the fabric will stain when it is wet. The best thing to do for these types of wallpapers is to vacuum frequently to get up any dust and dirt that's accumulated. If your fabric does not stain, check with the manufacturer to see what is the best type of cleanser for these types of papers. For non-washable papers, there is a commercial wallpaper cleaner (which is similar to a putty) that can be rubbed on the paper and wiped off. Follow the directions on the package. Be sure to test in an inconspicuous place as even though the package may say it's for all wallpapers, you'd rather be safe than stuck with a mess on your walls. If you still have some stubborn stains, here a few things you can try: If it's an oil or crayon stain, try placing a cotton or terrycloth towel on the stain and use your iron to heat oil onto towel, repeat. If your paper is washable, try to clean the stain using the method described above. For crayon spots, you may also try using cotton cloth moistened with denatured alcohol and wipe the spot gently. Fingerprints may be wiped up with a gum cleaner or a commercial wallpaper cleaner.

8.Source: http://id.essortment.com/fireplacehowto_rkdk.htm
Fireplace cleaning has never held the honor of being placed on most "things to do" lists. In fact, most indoor fireplaces go neglected for years, leaving you and your family at high risk for chimney and flue fires. As many as 35% of all household fires are the result of indoor fireplaces.* Learn to check your fireplace and chimney for signs of buildup and potential fire risks. Thanks to new and improved tools, fireplace and chimney cleaning is easier than ever.
HOW OFTEN
Fireplaces which are used at least 4-times per year, should be checked and cleaned once each year. The best time of year to do maintenance work on your fireplace and chimney is between late spring and early fall.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
CREOSOTE
Creosote is a brown or black residue which shows itself on the inner surfaces of the flue liner. This highly combustible material can reach temperatures exceeding 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit, and is the cause of most chimney fires. Check your flue area once a year for a coating that appears brown or black and is greater than 1/8-inch thickness.
SOOT
Soot is made up of carbon. These fine black particles can gather and collect anywhere in the home. Fireplace doors, decorative brick, and mantles are common areas of soot buildup.
CHECKING YOUR HARDWARE
The first step toward maintaining your fireplace is to check it for damage, buildup, and wear.
DAMPER
The damper is located in the throat of the chimney area, above the actual fireplace. It has a cast iron frame and cast iron hinged openings. The damper is the hardware inside your fireplace which controls and regulates the air allowed inside the fireplace and chimney. Dampers also get incrusted Creosote, soot, and misdirected ash buildup.
Open and close the damper several times. It should open and close freely, while fitting snuggly against the smoke shelf. Watch for debris that may restrict air flow and remove it using a chimney or fireplace brush. Also, use a flashlight and check around the damper area for cracks or rusted sections of metal. Dampers which are broken or corroded should be replaced immediately.
FLUE
The flue is the pipe that runs between your fireplace and your chimney. The flue is also a common area for Creosote buildup. The flue can be cleaned with a hard bristled, chimney, or specially made flue brush. See directions below.
GLASS DOORS
The majority of all fireplace glass doors are made of tempered or safety glass. Fireplace doors should be cleaned regularly of soot and creosote to help improve heat transfer and prevent weakening and damage. Glass doors can be cleaned between fires with a weak mixture of vinegar and water. Rinse thoroughly.
DANGER SIGNS TO WATCH FOR
CRACKS or loose mortar in the chimney area should be inspected by a professional immediately.
LOOSE brick or mortar around the fireplace itself should be repaired immediately. This can be done using a refractory cement or heat-proof sealer. Also, watch for cracks or disfiguring in the chimney's liner.
DEBRIS, which often collects around the fireplace hearth can start a fire in an instant. Clean the floor around the fireplace regularly and never store flammable materials or decorations any closer than 8-feet from the fireplace.
HOW TO CLEAN YOUR FIREPLACE
SAFETY MEASURES
When cleaning, always wear safety goggles and a dust or respirator mask. You may also wish to spread newspapers or a large tarp in front of the fireplace before cleaning to prevent staining rugs or carpeting.
CLEANING THE FIREPLACE
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
Short chimney brushes or flue cleaners
Vacuum
Broom
Metal container with lid.
Stiff bristled brush
If you're also having your chimney cleaned (or will be doing it yourself), it's important to do that first. That way, clean up will only take place once.
1. Using a short chimney or flue brush, clean the flue with short, but strong, strokes.
2. Using a stiff bristled brush, scrub the outside of the damper until it is buildup free.
3. Remove ashes from the fireplace hearth area and damper and place them in a metal container.
4. Vacuum the surrounding floor thoroughly, making sure to remove all flammable objects as you go.
5. Any soot which has settled or hardened on the fireplace glass or external decorative bricking can be removed with bleach and water or a degreaser.
A WORD ABOUT CHIMNEY CLEANING
Chimney brushes and other tools are readily available for purchase or rental to those who wish to tackle the job themselves. In order the clean a chimney properly, you'll need a complete set of chimney rods, brushes, and a ladder. The chimney is cleaned by opening the damper, climbing up on to your roof, removing the chimney cap and brushing the inside of the chimney with short, forceful, plunging motions. This action will move creosote and other debris into the fireplace hearth. From there, you'll move indoors to clean up the mess and proceed cleaning the fireplace.
TIPS AND TRICKS
USING a clean burning wood will make less cleanup for you. Oaks, ashes, hickory's, madrodes and other hardwoods burn cleaner than soft woods. (Stay clear of pine, cedar and fir!)
OVERLOADING your fireplace by building a fire that's too large for the space it's burning in produces "smoky" fires due to lack of oxygen. This means more cleanup for you.
USE a fireplace screen to ensure safety.
KEEP trees around the chimney area clean. Trim branches as often as necessary to help minimize the risk of fire. Also, keep the roof area free of leaves, pine needles, and acorns.
INSTALLING a flue or stovepipe thermometer will help to monitor the internal temperature inside the flue.
BUILDING small fires, instead of large ones, produce more heat and less smoke.
ALWAYS use a supporting grate when burning logs. Place large logs on the grate at the rear of the fireplace for cleaner burning fires.
ALWAYS stack firewood outdoors and at a minimum of 35-feet from the exterior of your home.
COVER the chimney with a mesh screen or chimney capt to prevent hot sparks from escaping and small animals and debris from entering.
9.Source: http://msms.essortment.com/pressurewasher_tvxh.htm
Basically, a pressure washer is a water pump and a motor on wheels that is powered by some sort of energy. The energy is either electric or gas. These power machines are great for cleaning the siding on your house, gutters, your driveway, lawn furniture, boats, cars, motorcycles, and more!
If you're in the market for a pressure washer, but you're not sure which one - electric or gas- would be the right power for you, then here are some facts that will help you decide:
1. Portability
An electric powered washer, of course, needs a constant source of power. So, if you're going to use the machine around the house, all you need to do is plug it in. You may need to use a heavy duty extension cord to reach all the way around your house to clean the siding. But, that's the biggest drawback. That, and because the machine will be connected to a cord which is plugged in, you'll have to be careful when you move it.
On the other hand, a gas powered pressure washer will go anywhere you need it to. As long as you have plenty of gas on hand, you can effortlessly move the machine to any location. You can move it around the outside of your house, to a barn or to a separate pole building- anywhere.
2. Pressure
Generally, electric power washers don't offer the same high amounts of pressure as a gas powered one does. These electric machines are usually the low pressure models. Low pressure might work fine on jobs such as cleaning the siding on your house, but for a real dirty job, you'll want all of the pressure that you can get.
A small electric powered washer can put out approximately a thousand to two thousand pounds of pressure. A small gas powered machine will range in horsepower from six to fifteen. It will give you
anywhere from two to five thousand pounds of pressure. So, you can see the obvious difference there.
3. Costs
If you're working with a tight budget, and costs are a major factor, then you might consider purchasing an electric machine over a gas powered one. There is more than one cost associated with purchasing and using any type of pressure washer. First, of course, is the cost to purchase it. A gas machine will usually cost more to purchase it than an electric machine. A gas machine will cost more to maintain it since it has more moving parts than will eventually wear out and need replaced. And, a gas machine will naturally cost more to operate. This is because the price of a gallon of gas is much higher than a kilowatt of electric.
4. Miscellaneous Pros and Cons
Pro: electric pressure washers are quiet, and they don't give off toxic fumes and odors.
Con: a gas powered machine must be operated in an area that is well ventilated.
Pro: both an electric and a gas powered pressure washer has attachments such as brushes and
spray nozzles that can help to increase the water flow. These attachments can also make the job at hand easier to tackle.
10.Source: http://oror.essortment.com/cleanyardafter_ttng.htm
Cleaning your yard after the destructive force of a hurricane is no simple feat. The gale force winds and heavy rains generally associated with hurricanes has been known to carry debris several miles from its original location before depositing it elsewhere. While some items swept away by the wind and water are relatively intact, most are broken apart into several pieces, creating a potentially hazardous situation for anyone who encounters the strewn debris. Even the seemingly easy task of cleaning one’s yard after a hurricane must be approached with extreme caution. After all, generally anything can and will be found in your yard following one of the most destructive forces of nature.
Before undertaking the task of cleaning your yard after a hurricane, certain protective measures must be employed. Since you don’t know what you might encounter in your own yard, you should don a good strong work boot or closed shoe and cover your hands with extra heavy duty gloves. It is also best if you wear long pants and a long sleeved shirt for extra protection against getting cut or scraped on debris as well as to guard against the increase in mosquitoes that usually occurs wherever there is a lot of standing water.
Once you have chosen appropriate clothing to wear, you must assess if there are any apparent hazards that need to be handled by a professional before you begin the task of cleaning your yard. Obvious hazards include downed power lines and live wires that may be present after a hurricane. If there are power lines laying in your yard, DO NOT attempt to remove them yourself. Call your local power service immediately as the downed lines represent a highly dangerous threat to anyone who comes into contact with them. Other potential dangers include dead animals and large pieces of building construction in danger of collapsing.
Since your yard is likely littered with a wide variety of debris, it is best to sort through the mess, making separate piles for what can be salvaged and what has been reduced to mere trash. Keepsakes belonging to other families may be found in your yard and every effort should be made to return the item to its rightful owner. Large chunks of broken and scattered debris can be piled into a large heap to be hauled away at a later time, while smaller pieces of debris can be collected in a heavy duty trash bag and disposed of sooner. It is extremely important that you take extra care when handling broken shards of glass, nails, and other sharp pieces of debris in order to minimize your chances of receiving an injury.
Once the painstaking task of clearing your yard of all the obvious debris has been completed, it is a good idea to rake through the grass in order to make sure no hidden debris remains that may present a hazard when you mow your lawn. Carefully rake in even strokes in order to make sure that all of the ground has been covered and no unseen dangers remain.
11.Source: http://az.essortment.com/hotcoldwaterp_tvjj.htm
A power washer is a great machine to have around your house. It can quickly and easily clean cars, trucks, boats, decks, concrete or asphalt driveways, and more! The water that is sprayed out is pressurized, and is therefore more powerful than a garden hose. So a power washer can remove dirt and grime faster and more efficiently than a garden hose can.
There are two types of power washers- the first one sprays cold water, while the second type sprays hot water. Generally, most machines that are made for residential use are the cold water type. A cold water washer can successfully remove general dirt and grime.
This type of machine is also smaller and lighter in weight than its counterpart. So, it is naturally easier to move around, haul, and store away. It is also less expensive to purchase. And, it comes in a wider variety of models than a cold water power washer does.
If you have general duty jobs to do around your house, then a cold water power washer will probably work fine for you. Just be sure that you purchase a model that has a pressure rating that is high enough to perform the jobs you have in mind.
A hot water power washer has its disadvantages. It's heavier than a cold water machine. This is because it has a heating system built into it. This heating system turns cold water into hot water for
better cleaning.
A hot water machine is also more expensive to purchase. Loading it into the bed of a pick up truck or the trunk of a car can be more difficult because of its weight and larger size.
However, if you are looking for a power washer that will work efficiently on removing more difficult grime, the hot water machine is the way to go! Examples of "more difficult grime" includes oil, grease, and fuels like gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel, fuel oil, barbecue grills, garbage cans, et cetera.
If you need to clean oily and greasy surfaces, then you must choose a hot water unit . The heated water can break down contaminants that cold water just can't. You know this is true if you have ever had grease or oil on your hands. If you tried to wash them clean with soap and cold water, then you had a tough time of it. However, if you turned the faucet to hot water, then you found that the heat helped to break down the oil and release it from your hands.
Hot water power washers can heat water up to two hundred degrees Fahrenheit. The high pressure, in combination with the heat, creates a team that cleans with an abrasive action. This type of machine loosens oil and grease from a surface, for example, then the high pressure of the water blows the contaminants away.
A power washer of this type can be especially useful if you work on your cars or trucks in your garage or on your driveway. It's also a quicker, more efficient way to clean poultry barns and horse stalls.

1.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/stainremovalti_sbui.htm
Removing motor oil from carpet
Motor oil stains on carpets and upholstery can be a nightmare. It is important to begin cleaning the area as soon as it is discovered. The longer stains remain on carpets and upholstery, the less likely you will be able to completely remove them.
There are various ways of removing motor oil from carpets and upholstery. The effectiveness of these methods depends largely on the materials in question. Some materials soak up stains, while others somewhat repel them. Read the manufacturer’s recommendations before attempting any method of cleaning. Use the method that best suits your particular carpeting or upholstery. When in doubt, consult a professional carpet or upholstery cleaner for advice.
If motor oil stains are on removable upholstery, you may be able to clean it effectively in your washing machine. Check upholstery labels for manufacturer recommendations before washing and drying them in a machine. If you determine it is safe to try, use an oxygen bleach product according to label directions along with warm water. Pre-treat the item with commercial stain remover of your choice, and place it in the washer. Set the water level on the lowest possible setting for the size of the item, and chose the longest possible wash cycle. If the item must be washed on “gentle cycle”, it may be necessary to wash it more than once. After checking to be sure the stain is gone, dry the item according to label directions.
If the upholstery cannot safely be washed by machine, it will be necessary to remove the stain by hand. There are many commercial cleaners available that claim to remove motor oil stains from carpets and upholstery. The most expensive cleaners aren’t necessarily the best. The most effective cleaners contain degreaser, so read product labels carefully for this ingredient. If you decide to use a commercial cleaner, follow the directions precisely so the stain does not become permanently set. After finding a cleaner you think will do the job, test it on a piece of scrap material first. Recreate the motor oil stain, and attempt to remove it according to label directions. If the product works well without causing damage to the material, then you can assume it will effectively clean your good upholstery or carpeting.
If the stain is on carpeting or material that must not come in contact with water, you may want to consider using dry cleaning solution in an attempt to remove it. Do not use dry cleaning fluid on carpets or upholstery that have latex backing or elastic trim. Dry cleaning fluid may damage these items.
Methylated alcohol, otherwise known as “wood spirits”, and ammonia can be mixed together to make an effective motor oil stain remover. In a disposable container, mix together one-part wood spirits to one part ammonia. Make sure the room has adequate ventilation, and test the mixture on a scrap piece of carpeting or fabric before using it on your good items. Recreate the motor oil stain, and use a sponge to gently blot the area. If the scrap material is damaged, reduce the amount of ammonia in the cleaning solution. Recreate the motor oil stain, and attempt to remove the stain again. If damage occurs, reduce the amount of ammonia once more, and continue this process until the solution effectively removes the stain without damaging the material. After the stain has been removed, clean the area with warm water and mild soap. Rinse it thoroughly, and allow it to dry. Properly dispose of any unused cleaning solution.
To reduce the risk of stained upholstery and carpets in the future, consider spraying them with fabric protector. The cost of this product is well worth the peace of mind and protection it provides.
2.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/cleaningtipsre_sbuj.htm
Removing rust from concrete
Rust stains on concrete are all too common for those having well water. It is near impossible to prevent rust build-up on concrete foundations, driveways, porches, patios, and sidewalks. When watering plants and bushes, the rust builds up over time, and leaves behind unsightly orange marks. These marks can turn a beautiful home into an eyesore.
If well water is the source of the problem, when watering bushes and plants around the foundation and other concrete areas of your home, use a spray nozzle that allows for better control. Although it isn’t easy, make every effort to avoid spraying concrete with well water that contains high levels of iron.
Rust stains can also occur on patios, sidewalks, and porches when metal furniture begins to rust. These marks often go unnoticed until furniture is moved. Maintaining a coat of paint on old metal furniture can prevent this problem.
If your metal furniture has begun peeling and rusting, remove as much of the old paint as possible using a wire brush. When refinishing the furniture, apply top-quality metal primer as the base coat, and follow label directions on rust-preventative paint for the topcoat. Not only will your metal furniture look brand new, but also there won’t be any future rust stains to worry about.
To remove existing rust stains from concrete there are several methods to try. Lemon juice, which contains acid, is a natural remedy for removing rust stains from concrete and other hard surfaces. Pour or squeeze undiluted lemon juice on rust stains, and let it sit for several minutes. If the stains are on the side of a concrete foundation, put lemon juice in a spray bottle, and spray the rust-covered surface. Use a sturdy bristle brush to scrub the area, and then rinse the lemon juice away along with the stain.
Another natural solution for rust removal is ordinary household vinegar. Apple cider vinegar and white vinegar both contain acid. Use either one to aid in the removal of unsightly rust stains. Either pour or spray undiluted vinegar on the stains, and allow it to set for several minutes. Scrub the area with a sturdy bristle brush, and rinse the vinegar and stains away.
Both vinegar and lemon juice can kill or damage foliage. Use caution when using these products around plants and bushes. After using these products for rust removal, be sure to rinse the area thoroughly with a hose. The vinegar or lemon juice will be diluted, and it should not cause any damage to surrounding bushes or plants.
If your rust problem is a difficult one, you should try using a commercial rust remover containing oxalic acid. It usually comes in powder form, and it is toxic. Follow label directions, and exercise caution when using it around children, pets, and foliage.
Sometimes stains on concrete foundations are caused by exposed metal rebar that has rusted. Rebar is the metal rod that reinforces poured concrete foundations. Many times portions of these metal rods are exposed. When these rods rust, they also become weak. Over time, the rust becomes an eyesore, and the weakening metal rods become a hazard to your foundation. After removing stains on your foundation that are caused by rusted rebar, you should seal the concrete to prevent any further rust or damage. Concrete sealer is available in most home improvement stores, and it is well worth the cost and time involved in application.
Rust on concrete surfaces is a problem for many, but it doesn’t have to be a permanent one. Use these solutions and methods to remove and prevent rust, and your concrete will look like it did when it was new.
3.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/removeoilconcr_sbdw.htm
Removing oil from concrete
Oil dripped onto your concrete driveway from your automobile can cause an unsightly mess. Because of the porous nature of concrete, oil will actually penetrate into the concrete so the earlier you remove it, the better your chances and the easier the job. If oil is allowed to sit on the surface for an extended period of time, you may find it almost impossible to completely remove.
To clean fresh oil from your driveway, cover the oil stain with a layer of a clay-based cat litter or sawdust. Allow the cat litter or sawdust sufficient time to soak up the oil, which could take a day or more. Completely sweep the concrete free of the litter or sawdust and dispose of it properly. If the stain is still present, scrub it with a solution of detergent and water using a nylon scrub brush. Rinse thoroughly.
Dry concrete also makes a good agent to absorb oil stains when used in conjunction with cat litter. Allow the litter to absorb the surface oil, sweep away the oil soaked litter and then spread a good covering of dry cement over the stain and let it sit on the surface for a day or so. The dry concrete will actually absorb the stain right out of the surface of the driveway. Be careful of weather conditions, as rain will cause the dry concrete to solidify.
Older oil stains that have penetrated the surface of the concrete are much harder to remove. Follow the above procedures to soak up the surface oil. Make a paste of two parts hydrated lime powder and one part turpentine. Spread the paste over the surface of the remaining oil stain covering a larger patch than the actual stain. Cover the stain with plastic sheeting to help prevent the turpentine from evaporating. Leave the poultice covering on the stain overnight. Scrape off the paste and follow with a good scrubbing of detergent and water. You may need to repeat this poultice procedure as more of the stain leaches up to the surface of the concrete.
A popular cleaner that has proven effective in the removal of oil stains from concrete is called trisodium phosphate also known as TSP. TSP is sold in powdered form and can be used in place of detergent to scrub the stain; however, it is not recommended as a mixture for a poultice as dangerous fumes can result. Sprinkle the TSP over the stain, add enough water to make a paste and scrub the stain with a good nylon brush.
Some people prefer more mechanical methods to remove oil stains from concrete. They can range from sand blasting, grinding, and steam cleaning. Others will argue the an acid treatment, such as a solution of muriatic acid and water, will remove an oil stain. However, instead of removing the oil stain, muriatic acid will actually dissolve some of the surface of the concrete and may alter the appearance after it dries.
Tips:
Clean oil from the surface of the concrete immediately to prevent deep stains.
Properly dispose of all oil soaked cleaning rags and soaking agents in an environmentally safe method.
Use proper ventilation when working with any chemicals. If you are cleaning a concrete floor inside the garage, open all the doors to allow good air circulation.
When muriatic acid is used, use caution and wear appropriate safety clothing such as goggles, rubber gloves and rubber boots. Carefully follow all manufacturer directions and warnings.
To prevent the concrete from absorbing too much acid, pre-wet the stained area with water.
Never use a wire brush when cleaning a concrete surface as pieces of the brush may become lodged in the concrete and cause future rust problems.
Apply cleaners to large areas of oil stained concrete on cloudy days to prevent the area from drying too quickly.
Prevention of oil drippings on a concrete driveway is easier than cleaning the stain. If you have an automobile that tends to leak oil, consider laying down a piece of cardboard to absorb the oil before it has a chance to soak into your driveway.
4.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/shinglestilesh_sbyv.htm
Tips for cleaning roof shingles and tiles
Even though a roof that has darker shingles doesn't show the dirt as easy, it will still get soiled and become unsightly. Some of the most common "dirt" is road dust, tree sap, moss, and mildew. The latter two can be real problems, especially if your house is shaded by trees. Moss and mildew usually start out by growing in cool, dark eaves. If they are left go, they then work their way up your roof, moving steadily and staining more shingles as they go. You can clean the shingles or tiles on your roof, though, and not only clear away the dirt, but also remove the stains left by these fungus.
The first item on the agenda that you have to consider is safety. Be sure that you use a sturdy ladder that is in good condition. If your roof is very high, or, if it is steeply sloped, it would be a good idea to wear a safety harness. Wear shoes or work boots that have non - skid soles. Shingles and tiles are slippery enough dry. Once they are wet, they are worse yet to navigate across.
The next step is to prepare the work area and gather the tools and supplies you will need for cleaning the roof. Here's a helpful tip: securely tie garbage bags around the end of every downspout. This will keep the cleaning solution from getting on your lawn, and on plants, shrubs, and trees nearby. Next, you will need either a low - pressure power spray washer or a garden hose with a screw - on soft brush and a sprayer bottle; a garden hose for obtaining rinse water; a two - gallon bucket; one gallon of hot water; one cup of household bleach; one - fourth of a cup of laundry detergent; one fourth of a cup of TriSodium Phosphate. Here's another helpful tip: make sure that you have plenty of garden hose so you can reach all areas of your roof with the water.
The third step is to put on your eye protection and a pair of heavy rubber gloves. Then, mix up the cleaning solution in the two - gallon bucket. Pour enough of the cleaner into either your power spray washer reservoir, or, into the sprayer bottle on your garden hose. Carefully climb up on your roof and spray the solution onto the dirtiest areas of the shingles or tiles first. Then, spray the rest of the roof, making sure to cover every square inch. Refill the sprayer as necessary, and respray the dirtiest areas a second time. Allow the cleaner to soak for twenty to thirty minutes.
The fourth step is to use either the low - pressure power spray washer or the garden hose with a screw - on soft brush to clean the stained areas of your roof. Then, move on to the rest of the roof and scrub or spray it clean. Finally, use the garden hose to rinse your roof off well. Here's a helpful tip: Always spray either the power spray washer or the garden hose from the top of your roof downwards. Never spray from the eaves up, or you could get the cleaning solution or the water up underneath the shingles.
Here's a final tip you should know: Be sure to rinse off the downspouts and the gutters in order to remove the corrosive cleaning solution from the metal.
After you have finished, your roof should look brand new! Don't forget to remove the garbage bags off the ends of the downspouts.
You can successfully clean off the shingles or tiles on your roof every season of the year, if need be. There's not too much you can do about road dust, but if tree sap becomes too much of a problem, you may choose to have any trees that shade your house taken down. And, there are special copper strips that you can install on the top of your roof to help inhibit the growth of moss. Then, every time it rains, the rainwater will run down the copper and onto the roof below. The runoff will act as a fungicide every where it flows onto your roof.
5.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/beewaxfurnitur_sbyw.htm
Traditional bee wax furniture polish and modern replacement
Bee wax furniture polish has been a long - time favorite for protecting fine, finished wood. It has always been a readily - available substance from nature. It gives wood a soft, satiny shine, and bee wax also protects it from some water damage. Before the manufacturing and distribution of lacquers and varnishes, bee wax was even used as a finish on bare wood.
Bee wax is produced by honey bees, hence its name. They produce the wax from glands on the undersides of their bodies. The honey bees use the wax particles to make the cells of their honey comb. Bee wax can often be found in waxes, polishes, and even in beauty cosmetics.
Bee wax itself is a soft substance that melts under heat easily. It never dries to become a hardened finish. Therefore, it does not provide furniture adequate protection from heat, steam, or chemical spills. Sometime over the years, though, bee wax was mixed with other harder waxes, such as carbine, to form a more modern, durable furniture polish. This addition significantly increased its ability to protect wood. This type of modern waxes is often preferred by the caretakers of fine wood furniture.
A modern replacement that is similar to using bee wax is paste wax. This type of polish is a semi - solid compound that is often sold in metal tins. A good - quality paste wax will not only add a brilliant shine to furniture, but it can also enhance the beauty of the wood by filling in light scratches, scuffs, and mars. To properly use a paste wax on furniture, you should start with a clean wood surface. Remove any dirt or spills with a soft, clean, cloth that is moistened with tap water.
Be sure that you follow the manufacturer's directions on the can in order to achieve the best results. Basically, though, you start with a soft, clean cloth. Place two fingers in the middle of the cloth and dip it into the paste wax. Apply the wax onto the surface of the furniture and rub it around in small circular motions. After you have covered the entire area, wait a few minutes for the wax to dry to a dull haze. Then, use a soft, clean cloth to rub off the dried wax. Finally, you will need to use a soft cloth and some elbow grease to buff the wood to a smooth shine. Applying paste wax is much harder than using other types of polishes, but the upside is that you only need to apply it about once a year. In between times, the wood surfaces of the furniture can be simply dusted off.
There are many other types of furniture polishes on the market today that have replaced the use of bee wax. The most commonly - used product is probably the convenient lemon - scented type in an aerosol can. This polish consists of either mineral oil or lemon oil and a scent. To use this type of furniture polish, you simply spray it on the wood and then wipe it off with a soft, clean cloth. There are also liquid and semi - solid types of polishes as well.
The oil base in furniture polish not only adds a shine to the wood, but it also helps to condition the wood and protect it from water and other liquids. What the oil cannot do, however, is to actually clean the surface, and that is one reason why many people choose to mix up their on furniture polish. You can mix up a solution of three cups of olive oil and one cup of vinegar and use this to clean, as well as polish, your furniture. Or, you can mix lemon juice instead of the vinegar with the olive oil to create an economical, but effective cleaner/polish. To use this type of liquid polish, you should sprinkle some of the solution onto a soft, clean cloth. Wipe this all over the wood surface. Then, wipe the furniture with another soft, clean cloth.
6.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/outsidefurnitur_salh.htm
Tips for cleaning patio and yard furniture
When the weather is nice, we all like to spend as much time outdoors as possible. For some of us that means relaxing and socializing in our back yards. Many of us have even invested in costly outdoor furniture for our decks and patios. These items require a bit of care, however. Who wants to sit on furniture that’s rusty and dirty? It’s really not difficult to clean outdoor furniture, and with proper maintenance these chairs and tables should last quite a few years.
If your outdoor furniture picked up mold and mildew while in storage, the best way to clean it is to use bleach. Dip a sponge into a solution of a half of a cup of bleach to one gallon of water and rub until the mold and mildew disappear. If you’re afraid the bleach might discolor your furniture, test a hidden spot first. Rinse with water to remove the bleach and dry with an old towel or let air dry. You’ll want to let the furniture air out anyway to get rid of the mildew and bleach smells.
Clean aluminum furniture with a very fine grade steel wool pad. Polish lightly to remove any corrosion or rust. Hose down to rinse and let air dry. For folding chairs, you may want to rub a little vegetable oil into the joints to keep the chair opening and closing smoothly.
Most plastic furniture just needs to be hosed down to remove dirt and cobwebs. If there happens to be stubborn dirt or stains, a simple household cleaning detergent or even all purpose cleaning spray will work just fine. Sponge the dirty area with soap and rinse with water to remove all the soap. Towel or air dry. For greasy spots, rub in a little lighter fluid using a soft cloth. Rinse very well with water once grease is removed.
You can also try cleaning padded furniture with a solution of hydrogen peroxide, dish soap and water. Use a sponge and clean until the dirt is removed. Hose down well to rinse away all soap. If you’re worried about the bleach staining your furniture, test on a hidden area first.
For outdoor wood furniture, try a simple solution of a half cup of vinegar, five tablespoons of baking soda and one cup of water. Use a gentle scrub brush, scrubbing sponge or scouring pad and gently remove dirt and debris. Hose down to rinse and towel dry.
Although wicker furniture is not recommended for daily outdoor use, there are a few tips for cleaning wicker furniture that is constantly exposed to the elements. For loose dry dirt, the furniture can be dusted with a plain dust cloth or even vacuumed. If food or a beverage has been spilled on the wicker, immediately clean with a little dishwashing liquid mixed with water. One tablespoon of mild dish soap to a gallon of water will work well. When it comes to cleaning wicker and rattan, plain old soap and water or a mild household detergent is all that’s needed.
Teak tends to turn gray if not taken care of. Sand out any water spots with a light grit sandpaper and rub with baby oil once a year for protection against the elements.
Hammocks and chairs made of cloth can actually be thrown in the wash on a gentle cycle. Hang outside to dry. Before the fabric is completely dry however, stretch it back around the frame so it doesn’t lose its shape.
Vinyl outdoor furniture can be cleaned with some diluted lemon juice. Rinse off with a hose once cleaned.
Make sure you clean your furniture before storing it away for the winter. Once your furniture is completely dry, cover with an old sheet or some plastic and store in a dry place. When you remove the furniture from storage in the spring, it should require only minimum dusting and rinsing, if that. With proper maintenance, your outdoor furniture should last for many seasons to come.
7.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/asphaltstainsr_samm.htm
Removing asphalt from carpet
We’ve all been there. We’re doing messy outside work and no matter how neat we think we’re being we somehow manage to track dirt and debris onto the carpet or smear it on the furniture. So what happens if you should happen to get asphalt on your carpet or upholstery? Don’t redecorate yet; asphalt stains really aren’t difficult to remove.
The first thing you should do upon staining your carpet or furniture is act immediately. Don’t wait because that will just cause the stain to set in deeper, which will make it much harder to remove. It’s also a good rule of thumb to check the care label on your furniture or rug to see if there are any solutions or chemicals that will cause a reaction that might discolor or weaken the fibers. You may even want to test soap or chemical solutions on a hidden area first to make sure you won’t be incurring further damage.
First scrape away any asphalt from the surface. Try not to scrape so hard you’re pulling up fibers. This will only weaken your carpet and can even lead to bare spots. You can try using a butter knife or your fingers. When no more asphalt comes off, take a paper towel and gently blot until no more of the stain can be lifted. Whatever you do, don’t rub at the stain. Not only will rubbing cause the stain to smear and spread making matters worse, but it will also weaken the fibers causing earlier wear and tear. A wire brush can be used for some gentle scrubbing but try not to spread the stain around too much.
If the upholstery can be removed from the furniture and placed in the freezer, this can also aid in the stain removal process. After about 30 minutes or so in cold storage, you may be able to use your finger or a butter knife to lift excess asphalt from the material. Once the excess is lifted away, try blotting with detergent and water. If you must put the upholstery in the dryer, make sure all traces of the stain are removed. Using a hot clothes dryer will set the stain deeper into the fabric. In fact, heat should never be applied to any kind of stain for this very reason.
Something else you can try is rubbing or denatured alcohol. Pour alcohol onto a sponge or towel and gently blot until the stain is lifted. Blot again with cool water to rinse. Dry with a thick towel.
If you happen to have some dry cleaning solvent lying around the house, it will do nicely as well. As with the alcohol, pour onto a sponge or cloth and blot. Keep blotting until the stain is lifted and then blot with cool water until all traces of the chemical is removed. Dry with a thick towel.
If the stain persists, wet the area and blot with a solution of detergent and water. Keep blotting until the stain is lifted. Repeat this process until the stain is gone. Rinse by blotting with cool water and dry with an absorbent towel.
You can also try a solution of half vinegar and half water. As with all the other methods, blot with this solution until no more of the stain can be lifted and then blot with cool water to rinse. You may have the smell of vinegar in the fabric for a day or two, but that should disappear shortly.
For a very stubborn stain, try blotting with a little turpentine. Again, you may want to test a hidden corner of carpet or furniture before applying harsh chemicals. Don’t apply the paint remover directly to the carpet. Instead pour on a cloth and blot. Make sure you wash all traces of the turpentine out of the carpet or furniture once the stain is removed.
If you’ve tried these methods and the stain is still present, it may be time to call in a professional. That’s rarely necessary, however, as most home remedies work just fine. As you can see, removing asphalt from your furniture or rugs isn’t a daunting task. All it requires is a bit of elbow grease and some items found in your kitchen or garage.
8.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/slatefloorclea_saln.htm
How to clean slate tile
Do you properly care for your flooring? Taking proper care in cleaning and protecting your floor prevents damage, extends the life of the floor, and will keep it looking great for years to come.
Sand and dirt particles cause your flooring to age prematurely. If you take a look at the soles of your shoes you’ll no longer wonder why our floors seem to stain and show wear in so little time. The sand and dirt grind away at the surface of the floor, setting in stubborn stains. Removing your shoes before walking on the surface of your floors is one simple way to prevent staining.
As soon as slate flooring is laid it’s important to think about prevention. First, sweep the floor clean of all dust and dirt. Use a neutral cleaner to remove the dirt, but not the shine, from the floor. There are many, many cleansers to choose from; some well-known brands are Marble life, Ezkleen, and Stonetech as well as many, many others. Warm water is another option that some find most reliable, and for obvious reasons, the most cost efficient. The important thing to remember is that the cleanser must not contain acids, as they will break down the slate, causing costly repair or replacement.
Next, you’ll want to apply two or three coats of stone and tile sealer to your slate flooring using a cotton string mop. Sealant can be found at your tile store, or wherever you purchase slate cleaners. Marble life and Stonetech, mentioned above, also make slate tile sealant. You’ll want to make sure to let each coat of sealant dry for thirty minutes before applying the next coat, to ensure the best protection possible.
For floors with an old finish, apply wax stripper to the floor and let it stand for three to five minutes, then break up the wax with a nylon bristled brush. Remove all the old wax with a mop, and then thoroughly cleanse floor with clean water, then seal it as indicated above. Resealing floors regularly is the best prevention of early wear and set in stains.
A sealed slate floor should be easier to clean and maintain, but spills should still be cleaned immediately. Cleaning stains out of slate and grout can test even the most patient person. Grout is very porous by nature, which means that liquids soak right through it. If you do not have colored grout, spray the stained area with a fifty-fifty solution of hydrogen peroxide and water directly on the stained area, letting it soak for fifteen minutes, and repeat. Again, only use this method of stain removal if you do not have colored grout. Peroxide is bleach, and will pull the color right out of your grout.
If the stain persists after spraying with the fifty-fifty solution, soak a paper towel or cotton rag with peroxide and place the towel directly over the stain for fifteen minutes. Placing the towel directly over the stain holds the peroxide on the stain, allowing more time for the stain to breakdown before the peroxide dries. If the stain still remains, create a paste of peroxide and baking soda, allowing the bubbling to settle before applying. Apply the paste to the stain and let it set, re-spraying with peroxide as it dries out. After letting the re-sprayed mixture dry, gently wipe with a warm towel and the area should be stain free.
Another easy option for stain removal is shaving cream, which usually does a great job removing even the most stubborn stains. Again, if you have colored grout it’d be best to test an inconspicuous area before applying it to an area that is highly visible, as bleaching could occur. Most tile stores also carry a product that looks like a stick of chalk and easily removes most stains. Remember, after removing stains from grout you need to reseal again to prevent permanent stains in the future.
The key to beautiful floors is prevention. Of course, aging and wear is normal, and eventual replacement must be expected. If your floors are well sealed and maintained they will easily exceed their life expectancy.
9.Source: http://www.essortment.com/home/householdcleani_sanh.htm
Window washing pointers
Window washing may not be glamorous, but at least it isn’t hard. You can achieve the streak-free, sparkling look of professionally cleaned windows without a lot of fuss. The only things you’ll need are a small block of time and a handful of basic tools: cleaning solution, a sponge, a squeegee, and a towel.
First, you must decide what sort of cleaning solution you will use. You might be surprised to learn that the best solutions are homemade. Obviously, many people opt for sprays like Windex. While there is no denying the convenience of store-bought cleansers, they are not high performers in terms of actual cleaning. If you must use one of these products, be sure to use it with a lint-free cloth. Paper towels will cause streaks.
If you can spare a few minutes to mix your own solution, you will achieve much better results. The best formula is vinegar (there are many different types, so be sure to use white vinegar) and slightly warm water. About 1/4 cup of vinegar per quart of water should do the job; exact measurements are not necessary, so feel free to eyeball the amounts.
If you don’t have any white vinegar around the house, ammonia and water will make a perfectly serviceable window washing solution. Use about a capful per quart of water. In a real pinch you can also use dishwashing liquid. Use it sparingly, adding only a few drops per quart of water. (This last method isn’t highly recommended, as your windows will streak if you add too much dishwashing liquid.)
The other three window washing tools involve less choice. Any kind of sponge will do. (Some people actually prefer to use newspapers be